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Quick answer: Compare insulation types by R per inch, where they fit, how they handle air and moisture, the tools they need and whether DIY is realistic. Loose-fill suits open attic floors, batts suit open cavities, rigid foam suits continuous layers and basements, and spray foam suits air-sealing jobs and tight spaces, usually installed by pros.
Material comparison
| Material | Typical R/in | Best uses | Air sealing | Moisture | DIY? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Loose-fill fiberglass | ~2.2–2.9 | Attic floors | No | Does not absorb much | Yes, with machine |
| Loose-fill cellulose | ~3.2–3.8 | Attic floors, dense-pack walls | Slows air | Absorbs water | Attics yes; walls usually pro |
| Fiberglass batts | ~2.9–4.3 | Open walls, floors, attics | No | Does not absorb much | Yes |
| Mineral wool batts | ~3.0–3.3 | Walls, fire and sound | No | Water-resistant | Yes |
| Rigid foam (EPS/XPS/polyiso) | ~3.6–6.5 | Basements, continuous sheathing, hatches | At sealed seams | Varies by type | Yes |
| Open-cell spray foam | ~3.5–3.7 | Rooflines, walls | Yes | Vapour-open | Pro usually |
| Closed-cell spray foam | ~6–7 | Rim joists, basements, tight spaces | Yes | Vapour-retardant | Small kits; pro for large |
Figures are typical; your product's label governs. See the R-value chart.
Comparing by cost per R
A fair comparison is cost per R per square foot: price per square foot divided by the R it delivers. A product with low cost per bag but low R per inch may not be cheapest. Our cost calculator lets you test your own prices; we publish none.
Comparing by situation
- Open attic floor, topping up: loose-fill is usually fastest; see blown-in vs batt.
- Choosing loose-fill fibre: see fiberglass vs cellulose.
- Shed or garage walls: batts or rigid foam; see the shed calculator.
- Rim joists and basements: rigid foam or closed-cell foam; see the spray foam calculator.
- Cathedral ceilings: depend on venting design; ask a pro.
Things that matter more than material
- Air sealing first.
- Installation quality: no gaps, no compression, correct depth.
- Ventilation and moisture control.
- Hazard checks: vermiculite, wiring, mould.
Fire and code
All insulation must meet code fire requirements. Foam plastics generally need a thermal barrier such as drywall where exposed in living spaces, with exceptions in some attics and crawlspaces under code rules. Keep insulation clear of chimneys, flues and non-IC-rated fixtures. Check product data sheets and local code.
Environmental notes
Recycled content, blowing agents in foams and embodied carbon vary between products. If this matters to you, compare manufacturer environmental product declarations where available. We do not rank products or brands.
Worked example
Figures below are illustrative examples (2026-10-29), not quotes or guarantees.
Assumptions: adding R30 over 500 sq ft, made-up prices per sq ft at R30: loose-fill fiberglass $0.60, cellulose $0.55, batts $0.80, closed-cell foam $3.00. Material totals: $300, $275, $400 and $1,500. Cost per R per sq ft: 2.0, 1.8, 2.7 and 10 cents. Not real prices; use yours.
Rigid foam types in brief
- EPS (expanded polystyrene): lower cost per board, moderate R, vapour-permeable relative to other foams.
- XPS (extruded polystyrene): higher R per inch and moisture resistance; some blowing agents have higher climate impact, so check product details.
- Polyiso (polyisocyanurate): highest R per inch of the three, often foil-faced; performance can drop in very cold conditions, which matters on exterior applications in cold climates.
All three are useful for basement walls, attic hatches, rim joists and continuous exterior sheathing. Seal seams with compatible tape and follow fire-barrier rules.
Mineral wool vs fiberglass batts
Mineral wool is denser, holds its shape, cuts cleanly with a serrated knife, resists fire and dampens sound better. Fiberglass batts are lighter and widely available. Both are fibrous and need air sealing.
Settling, sagging and durability
Loose-fill can settle; batts can sag in floors without support; foam can shrink or crack if poorly installed. Choose products with clear data sheets, install to instructions, and inspect occasionally.
Matching material to skill
| Skill level | Practical choices |
|---|---|
| Beginner | Batts in open framing, rigid foam on hatches |
| Comfortable DIY | Loose-fill attic top-up with a helper and machine |
| Experienced | Small closed-cell kits on rim joists |
| Professional | Large spray foam, dense-pack walls, abatement |
A decision path
- Where does insulation go: attic floor, walls, floor, basement or roofline?
- What is there now, and is it safe?
- What R does your climate call for?
- What fits the space depth?
- What can you install well?
- What does it cost per R with your prices?
Hazards before any material
Check for vermiculite, mould, pests and wiring issues before choosing any product. Safety comes before R-value.
Comparing on cost per R
Compare materials by cost per square foot per R rather than price per bag or board. Illustrative example (2026-10-29): if a material costs $0.60 per sq ft for R-30, that is 2.0 cents per R per sq ft; a material at $3.00 per sq ft for R-30 is 10 cents per R per sq ft. Real prices vary widely, so run your own numbers in the cost calculator. Then weigh cost per R against air sealing ability, moisture behaviour, fire rules and how well you can install it. The cheapest per R is not best if it will not fit, or if you cannot install it properly. Labour also changes the picture: a material that costs more per R but installs in half the time can be cheaper overall when you are paying a crew.
Environmental notes
Materials differ in recycled content, embodied energy and blowing agents. Cellulose often has high recycled content; some foams use blowing agents with higher climate impact. If this matters to you, look for environmental product declarations from manufacturers.
Bottom line
There is no single best insulation. Match the material to the space, climate, budget and your skill, and always air seal first.
FAQ
Which insulation is best?
It depends on location, budget and DIY ability; there is no single best.
Is spray foam worth it?
It air-seals and adds R in tight spaces, but costs more per R.
Can I mix materials?
Yes, as long as moisture and fire rules are respected.
What about vermiculite?
It is an old material that may contain asbestos; do not disturb it.